"It's only words and words are all I have to take your heart away" - we were listening to a Bee Gees CD on the hour-long drive to the Toulouse train station. Our friend pulled it off the shelf and laid it on the dining room table for the trip, the entire group was all about jamming to the Bee Gees that morning. We had spent a couple of days with friends in the south of France and communicating was interesting. Some of us were not as fluent in French or English, so, ironically, Italian became our common ground. To me, the timing of this song was profound.
NOTE 1: Despite 3 years of high school French, I realized I do not, in fact, parle un peu Francais; I just know some words. This could be problematic should I press on with plans to study wine in France next fall - Ms. Stone & I have some serious catching up to do.
Of course when you are learning languages, living in other countries, and trying to communicate across cultural boundaries, words are important; not just in the words selected, but how they are utilized. However, I'm reminded every day that learning a language requires more than just learning the words. Understanding the intricacies of other worlds requires getting to know people who will open up to you about things you wouldn't understand had you not been studying the language - not just learning some "tourist phrases" or words. And vice versa - to fully understand the language and really communicate with people, you have to understand more about their way of life.
While it may be blatantly obvious to most of us, it really sinks in as you get to see new places from a more human perspective than a "look where I've been" approach to "tourism" which really seems kind of hollow. I don't want to look back on these pictures someday and say, "Oh yes, I've been there, done that." I want to remember how my world was changed, my reality shifted by experiences that often can't be expressed in mere words - no matter how diligently I keep attempting to do so. And for those who will never get to experience the joys and even awkward moments of cultural immersion or an intimate glimpse inside other cultures, some of us will try to share these moments - with words.
So for the last 2 weeks I spent observing, trying to communicate, and touch other cultures, I thought often about stereotypes, traditions, lifestyles, perceptions, and paradigms...and of course, words - the essence of getting around, yes?
Grossbottwar, Germany. The gasthaus was owned by a Greek man. My friends were from Taiwan and Canadian origins. The server was Bosnian, but spoke German. When our only German-speaking friend turned to have a conversation at the next table, we were faced with speaking with the server, and since the two of us don't sprechen, we found she could also speak Italian - as she was married to an Italian man. We quickly found common ground for communication, and ended a meal of traditional Schwabish fare with shots of Ouzo sent out by chef and kisses on both cheeks a` la Italiano for our lovely server. I was warmed by the coming together of so many cultures at one table - and of course the German beer - and the warm, cheesy spaetzle - and the Ouzo.
Castelsarrasin, France. "Do you like coffee?" my French host asked, our first morning. His English was much better than my French; his wife's Italian was better than her English so Italian became our default language. Then he produced a pot of coffee and set a small bowl in front of me. That's right - the French traditionally drink coffee from bowls. I LOVED it! I expressed that this was new to me, as apparently was this particular set of coffee bowls - they were a Christmas gift to his lovely wife. The beautiful thing about drinking from these coffee bowls is that you wrap your hands around them. There is no absent-minded coffee mug in one hand while flipping through the newspaper with the other. The coffee warms your hands. The conversation with the people across the table, over the horizon of your bowl, warms your heart.
Throughout the next couple of days in France, we not only talked about cultural observations, differences, but played back and forth between the three languages, shared traditional French cuisine, wines, cheeses, tea houses, markets, and historical and architectural tours of Montauban and Toulouse. We all agreed that just because you spend a few days in Paris, you don't know squat about French anything.
NOTE 2: Yes, there really IS a cheese course that comes before the dessert - be still my heart.
Geneve, Switzerland. Well, it doesn't get any more international than this place - so when in Geneve, you must understand you are not getting the traditional flavor of Swiss culture. At this point I'm so confused as to which language to use I found myself mixing French with whatever forgotten words reverting to Italian (4 months ago it was the other way around - if I didn't know the Italian word, I'd revert to the French - it seems my proficiency in these respective languages has since flip-flopped). At some point I must have thought, "Fuck it. I'll just admit I'm a tourist and see who can parlez/parla/speak English." I call it a 'Bon Jour, Merci Beaucoup' sandwich with a filling of bastardized French/English/Italian. It was in this method we asked our food-loving, degree in Hospitality Studies-touting, front-desk guy at our hotel to recommend restaurants. Indian food!
NOTE 3: The thing about living in Tuscany, is that you will eat, drink and love all things Tuscan or at least Italian. You will not experience any fine international cuisine (the keyword being 'fine') of Chinese, Japanese, French, Indian, or Thai. Or Starbuck's. To Tuscans - it's their way or take your non-wild-boar-eating, latte-drinking tourist-y ass back to America.
I admit it - I absolutely adore living in Tuscany, and all the pork and Pecorino that comes with it. I actually miss the cheese when I'm not here, as despite variety in America, the soft, fresh Pecorino upon which I often pontificate is nearly impossible to score in the US. Cappuccino rules aside, I still adore variety ... wherever I am. Indian food? Hell yes! (or "Volontiers" which I learned is the French equivalent to "With Pleasure"... not "Bien Sur" as I had thought all these years!) This restaurant Adrian (our hotel personality du jour in Geneve) sent us to was not only one of the most fantastic Indian dining experiences I've ever had - they somehow managed to pair even more fantastic French wines with their fare. The restaurant is called Bollywood, and the menu is in a DVD case. Clever. Here come the pics:
The white is a Chateau Tour de Mirambeau, Bordeaux Superieur (2007) served with a vegetable korma, and of course raita and naan stuffed with vegetables. DeVINE pairing.
The red is a spunky Julienas Domaine de La Vieille Eglise Heritiers Loron (2006) served with lamb (or as our Pakistani waiter put it, "kabob of sheep").
The third picture is of Ganesha, lit up like Vegas. We did not eat him, if that's what you're thinking, however, I enjoyed eating next to Ganesha, one of my favorite Hindu gods - known as the "remover of obstacles." No one appreciates the removal of obstacles more than I, however those obstacles may be removed, I'm ALL about getting them out of the way. Plus, I just like elephants. Next to Ganesha is a video screen where continuous Bollywood music videos are shown throughout the dining experience, which borders on entertainment.
OK - where are we again? Oh yes, Geneve, Switzerland. We also found time to explore French Crepes, the very popular Martel Chocolaterie and Tearoom, and ended each night in the Brittania Pub, one of the first British pubs ever established in Geneve in the early 1970s, which just happened to be in our hotel. No obstacles between evening rounds of Guinness. As for the chess pieces below, I did NOT knock these over, if that's what you're thinking...but thought it was one of the coolest parks ever.
Luzern, Switzerland. The last leg of our holiday "let's see where we end up" time in Europe. And as scenery goes, so breathtaking. History of Switzerland was something new and unexplored for me as well, and probably not considered very often by some of us - since they are never in the news, right? We were fortunate enough to be hosted by one of the most intellectually stimulating conversationalists I've had the honour of encountering in quite a while. It helped that his English was perfection, as my brain was about as discombobulated as the chess pieces in the above photo. Literally, and figuratively, Luzern and its charming residents - quite a breath of fresh air for the mind, body, and spirit.
We were treated to hikes to favorite overlooks of mountains and lakes, walks through historically and politically significant locations throughout the city, and the most delicious ORIGINAL Swiss fondue ever, with perfectly paired Swiss wine. This girl? Enchanted beyond words. It is here that words are failing me miserably when trying to describe the internal shift, the lightness, and the energy infusing me as I left perfect Luzern in the snow that was equally as light, falling more like feathers, each flake landing in brilliant crystalline star formations wherever they so chose to alight.
The snowy hillside on the right is ironically the last place I saw my most perfect-fitting pair of sports sunglasses. Think maybe it was time for a new way of looking at things. Isn't that why we travel? Sunglasses - THINGS - can be replaced; times that change the way you think, exist, maybe even live - these moments are fleeting and irreplaceable.
Below is a photo of the Maharishi European Research University - there is a monument here, that commemorates Maharishi Mahesh Yogi's declaration, here at Lake Luzern, on 12 January 1975, of the dawning of the age of enlightenment. For those of us trying to live our Yoga everyday places & events such as these offer a glimmer of hope.
NOTE 4: And for the girl who only buys dark chocolate because she says, "Milk chocolate is for sissies" - she has been introduced to real Swiss milk chocolate. And it is a dream. That's what I said. I've been enlightened.
Sharing these times with friends who are generous, fun-loving, and willing to share their worlds in Germany, France, and Switzerland... They allowed us to see things through their eyes, listen to their stories, opened their homes and shared time with their families and friends, and gave us the gift of discovering that there are other realities outside out own little boxes. I am beyond grateful.
"People are influenced by what we are, what we radiate. This has greater appeal than what we say." (Maharishi Mahesh Yogi)
So much for words.
NOTE 1: Despite 3 years of high school French, I realized I do not, in fact, parle un peu Francais; I just know some words. This could be problematic should I press on with plans to study wine in France next fall - Ms. Stone & I have some serious catching up to do.
Of course when you are learning languages, living in other countries, and trying to communicate across cultural boundaries, words are important; not just in the words selected, but how they are utilized. However, I'm reminded every day that learning a language requires more than just learning the words. Understanding the intricacies of other worlds requires getting to know people who will open up to you about things you wouldn't understand had you not been studying the language - not just learning some "tourist phrases" or words. And vice versa - to fully understand the language and really communicate with people, you have to understand more about their way of life.
While it may be blatantly obvious to most of us, it really sinks in as you get to see new places from a more human perspective than a "look where I've been" approach to "tourism" which really seems kind of hollow. I don't want to look back on these pictures someday and say, "Oh yes, I've been there, done that." I want to remember how my world was changed, my reality shifted by experiences that often can't be expressed in mere words - no matter how diligently I keep attempting to do so. And for those who will never get to experience the joys and even awkward moments of cultural immersion or an intimate glimpse inside other cultures, some of us will try to share these moments - with words.
So for the last 2 weeks I spent observing, trying to communicate, and touch other cultures, I thought often about stereotypes, traditions, lifestyles, perceptions, and paradigms...and of course, words - the essence of getting around, yes? 
Grossbottwar, Germany. The gasthaus was owned by a Greek man. My friends were from Taiwan and Canadian origins. The server was Bosnian, but spoke German. When our only German-speaking friend turned to have a conversation at the next table, we were faced with speaking with the server, and since the two of us don't sprechen, we found she could also speak Italian - as she was married to an Italian man. We quickly found common ground for communication, and ended a meal of traditional Schwabish fare with shots of Ouzo sent out by chef and kisses on both cheeks a` la Italiano for our lovely server. I was warmed by the coming together of so many cultures at one table - and of course the German beer - and the warm, cheesy spaetzle - and the Ouzo.Castelsarrasin, France. "Do you like coffee?" my French host asked, our first morning. His English was much better than my French; his wife's Italian was better than her English so Italian became our default language. Then he produced a pot of coffee and set a small bowl in front of me. That's right - the French traditionally drink coffee from bowls. I LOVED it! I expressed that this was new to me, as apparently was this particular set of coffee bowls - they were a Christmas gift to his lovely wife. The beautiful thing about drinking from these coffee bowls is that you wrap your hands around them. There is no absent-minded coffee mug in one hand while flipping through the newspaper with the other. The coffee warms your hands. The conversation with the people across the table, over the horizon of your bowl, warms your heart.
Throughout the next couple of days in France, we not only talked about cultural observations, differences, but played back and forth between the three languages, shared traditional French cuisine, wines, cheeses, tea houses, markets, and historical and architectural tours of Montauban and Toulouse. We all agreed that just because you spend a few days in Paris, you don't know squat about French anything.
NOTE 2: Yes, there really IS a cheese course that comes before the dessert - be still my heart.
Geneve, Switzerland. Well, it doesn't get any more international than this place - so when in Geneve, you must understand you are not getting the traditional flavor of Swiss culture. At this point I'm so confused as to which language to use I found myself mixing French with whatever forgotten words reverting to Italian (4 months ago it was the other way around - if I didn't know the Italian word, I'd revert to the French - it seems my proficiency in these respective languages has since flip-flopped). At some point I must have thought, "Fuck it. I'll just admit I'm a tourist and see who can parlez/parla/speak English." I call it a 'Bon Jour, Merci Beaucoup' sandwich with a filling of bastardized French/English/Italian. It was in this method we asked our food-loving, degree in Hospitality Studies-touting, front-desk guy at our hotel to recommend restaurants. Indian food!
NOTE 3: The thing about living in Tuscany, is that you will eat, drink and love all things Tuscan or at least Italian. You will not experience any fine international cuisine (the keyword being 'fine') of Chinese, Japanese, French, Indian, or Thai. Or Starbuck's. To Tuscans - it's their way or take your non-wild-boar-eating, latte-drinking tourist-y ass back to America.
I admit it - I absolutely adore living in Tuscany, and all the pork and Pecorino that comes with it. I actually miss the cheese when I'm not here, as despite variety in America, the soft, fresh Pecorino upon which I often pontificate is nearly impossible to score in the US. Cappuccino rules aside, I still adore variety ... wherever I am. Indian food? Hell yes! (or "Volontiers" which I learned is the French equivalent to "With Pleasure"... not "Bien Sur" as I had thought all these years!) This restaurant Adrian (our hotel personality du jour in Geneve) sent us to was not only one of the most fantastic Indian dining experiences I've ever had - they somehow managed to pair even more fantastic French wines with their fare. The restaurant is called Bollywood, and the menu is in a DVD case. Clever. Here come the pics:
The white is a Chateau Tour de Mirambeau, Bordeaux Superieur (2007) served with a vegetable korma, and of course raita and naan stuffed with vegetables. DeVINE pairing.
The red is a spunky Julienas Domaine de La Vieille Eglise Heritiers Loron (2006) served with lamb (or as our Pakistani waiter put it, "kabob of sheep").
The third picture is of Ganesha, lit up like Vegas. We did not eat him, if that's what you're thinking, however, I enjoyed eating next to Ganesha, one of my favorite Hindu gods - known as the "remover of obstacles." No one appreciates the removal of obstacles more than I, however those obstacles may be removed, I'm ALL about getting them out of the way. Plus, I just like elephants. Next to Ganesha is a video screen where continuous Bollywood music videos are shown throughout the dining experience, which borders on entertainment.
OK - where are we again? Oh yes, Geneve, Switzerland. We also found time to explore French Crepes, the very popular Martel Chocolaterie and Tearoom, and ended each night in the Brittania Pub, one of the first British pubs ever established in Geneve in the early 1970s, which just happened to be in our hotel. No obstacles between evening rounds of Guinness. As for the chess pieces below, I did NOT knock these over, if that's what you're thinking...but thought it was one of the coolest parks ever.
Luzern, Switzerland. The last leg of our holiday "let's see where we end up" time in Europe. And as scenery goes, so breathtaking. History of Switzerland was something new and unexplored for me as well, and probably not considered very often by some of us - since they are never in the news, right? We were fortunate enough to be hosted by one of the most intellectually stimulating conversationalists I've had the honour of encountering in quite a while. It helped that his English was perfection, as my brain was about as discombobulated as the chess pieces in the above photo. Literally, and figuratively, Luzern and its charming residents - quite a breath of fresh air for the mind, body, and spirit. We were treated to hikes to favorite overlooks of mountains and lakes, walks through historically and politically significant locations throughout the city, and the most delicious ORIGINAL Swiss fondue ever, with perfectly paired Swiss wine. This girl? Enchanted beyond words. It is here that words are failing me miserably when trying to describe the internal shift, the lightness, and the energy infusing me as I left perfect Luzern in the snow that was equally as light, falling more like feathers, each flake landing in brilliant crystalline star formations wherever they so chose to alight.
The snowy hillside on the right is ironically the last place I saw my most perfect-fitting pair of sports sunglasses. Think maybe it was time for a new way of looking at things. Isn't that why we travel? Sunglasses - THINGS - can be replaced; times that change the way you think, exist, maybe even live - these moments are fleeting and irreplaceable.
Below is a photo of the Maharishi European Research University - there is a monument here, that commemorates Maharishi Mahesh Yogi's declaration, here at Lake Luzern, on 12 January 1975, of the dawning of the age of enlightenment. For those of us trying to live our Yoga everyday places & events such as these offer a glimmer of hope.
NOTE 4: And for the girl who only buys dark chocolate because she says, "Milk chocolate is for sissies" - she has been introduced to real Swiss milk chocolate. And it is a dream. That's what I said. I've been enlightened.
Sharing these times with friends who are generous, fun-loving, and willing to share their worlds in Germany, France, and Switzerland... They allowed us to see things through their eyes, listen to their stories, opened their homes and shared time with their families and friends, and gave us the gift of discovering that there are other realities outside out own little boxes. I am beyond grateful.
"People are influenced by what we are, what we radiate. This has greater appeal than what we say." (Maharishi Mahesh Yogi)
So much for words.
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All entries are strictly observations from my point of view. This blog is not intended as professional commentary on travel, wine, food, or any other subjects I discuss - it is for entertainment, an online journal, for my friends, family, and anyone interested in my stories or journey in general.
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